THE ILLUSTRATED MODIFICATION
WARNING: Removal of the stock heatsink voids the warranty of your card. These instructions are provided as is and created by a novice with no expertise. The instructions come with no warranty as to their effectiveness, safeness or freedom from errors. Any modification, including this one, may result in the damage to your card. Use of these instructions is at your own risk.
This modification was applied to a Gigabyte Maya II 9700 Pro. To my knowledge, the layout of this card is no different than the majority of Radeons.
Any Questions? Feel free to email me.
Project Time - Depending on your experience, expect to spend 1-3 hours to finish this project.
The Parts
Although replacing the stock heatsink on your 9700 Pro is a relatively straightforward project, it does require several tools.
1. Dremel
2. Grinding Stone for the dremel
NOTE: Parts 1 & 2 are unnecessary if you choose to remove the Shim surrounding the GPU. See Step 2 for further information.
3. Electric Drill
4. #4-40 Tap (Click for picture)
5. 3/32" Drill Bit (& optional 5/64" drill bit)
6. #4-40 screws (1/2" to 3/4" is adequate). #4-40 x .75 (3/4") is utilized if using the spring attachment method (see step 6).
7. Nuts for the screws (optional) and nylon washers (for #4-40 screw; washers for #4-48 screws will also suffice)
8. Cutting and Tapping fluid (lubricant for drilling) - Cool Tool by Monroe Fluid Technology was used
9. Zalman Fanmate (Optional - allows you to decrease the RPM of the fan thereby decreasing any noise). At the heatsinks default power it makes a minimal albeit audible whisper. Using the Zalman Fanmate or any fan controller will allow you to make the fan inaudible.
10.
Replacement Heatsink: The Dynatron DC1206BM/Cooljag JAC313C 1u heatsink &
fan
11. Masking Tape
12. Thermal Paste
13. Isopropyl Alcohol
For information on where to purchase the PC components (prices & links), please visit the LINKS page.
The Procedure
STEP 1: Stock Heatsink Removal
I was so eager to begin the project that I failed to take pictures of the card before removing the heatsink. Before removing the heatsink I would recommend running your PC through a few graphic intensive benchmarks in order to heat up the thermal pad. Alternatively, you could heat it the GPU area up with a hair dryer. This should help loosen the thermal pad a bit. On the back of the card you will find two plastic push pins that hold the stock heatsink onto the card. Pinching the pins inward will allow you to push the pin back through the hole in the bottom of the card. Some push pins have a center pin that must be pulled out of the push pin's top before pinching the pins tip inward. Here is a diagram showing removal of the push pins. After pushing both tips through the hole the heatsink will still be connected to the GPU with a thermal pad. Twist the stock heatsink back and forth a few degrees to loosen up the thermal pad. While twisting the heatsink, pull lightly on the stock heatsink. With minimal force you should be able to remove the heatsink from the PCB. Once the stock heatsink is removed, remove any thermal pad residue on the GPU by using 90% or higher isopropyl alcohol. This is the 9700 Pro after the heatsink has been removed. Note the 2 holes to the left & right of the GPU where the push pins resided.
STEP 2 (OPTIONAL NOT RECOMMENDED): Shim Removal
In the above picture the shim is the silver plate surrounding the GPU & FCPGA (green area the GPU mounts to). On most Radeons the shim prevents the heatsink from making direct metal (hs) to core contact because the top of the shim is slightly higher than the top of the GPU. To address this issue (which may or may not have been by design) ATI uses a thick thermal pad between the GPU and the stock heatsink. Unfortunately, due to manufacturing imperfections, many installations of the heatsink have been insufficient and there are numerous reports of Radeon owners who experienced overheating GPUs due to insufficient contact.
There are several ways to address this issue. One can stick with using a thicker thermal pad but thermal pads are not the most efficient heat conductors. Alternatively, the shim can be removed which alleviates the extra space between the heatsink and GPU. Another method is to create a copper or aluminum spacer that will fit within the area of the shim and will act as the contact between the heatsink and GPU. The method I used is to mill into the replacement heatsink grinding down an area such that it will fit over the shim and the heatsink and GPU can make flush contact using the traditional thin layer of thermal paste.
Because the shim removal can be dangerous as well as create added difficulties should your card require warranty service (NOTE: Removing the stock heatsink voids the warranty on your card) I would not recommend doing so because the added benefit of doing so in this modification is not worth the risk and/or added difficulties. Consequently, I will not address this optional step. Here is a thread on Rage3d discussing the removal of a shim. I have never removed a shim and do not endorse either the removal of the shim or any method of removing the shim.
Should you choose to remove your shim, you will not need to grind down the heatsink in STEP 6 since the shim frustrating contact between the heatsink & GPU will not be an issue.
STEP 3: Marking the drill holes
The new heatsink will be fastened to the GPU in a similar manner as the stock heatsink. In order to achieve this with the 1u heatsink you will need to drill holes into the heatsink. Marking the drill holes on the heatsink is a very critical step that requires very accurate measurements. While mis-marking the holes is not fatal to the project it will result in a less than ideal attachment and create added frustrations. After removing the fan from the heatsink, apply masking tap to the bottom of the heatsink. This is to facilitate marking the holes with a pencil or felt tip pen. Once tape is applied to the bottom, you will center the 1u heatsink over your GPU to ensure that it does not make contact with any other electrical components. Ensure it will not interfere with plugging your card into the AGP slot. I learned a very valuable tip in this process. Once you find a comfortable fit for the heatsink (in my case the elevated step of the 1u was facing away from the AGP connector) mark 1 hole by shoving the pencil tip/felt tip through the back of the PCB hole & onto the masking tap of the heatsink. TIP: MOVE ONTO STEP 4 AND DRILL THE FIRST HOLE. Trying to mark both holes by holding the heatsink against the PCB is inviting inaccuracies (as I experienced). Even with 2 people (1 holding & 1 marking) working on the project we made both holes at the same time. And, even after rechecking them discovered 1 of the holes was off by just the slightest amount. Because there is no room for error, it resulted in having to drill out the hole thereby eliminating the tap to screw into. Consequently, on my setup I have 1 screw that screws into the tapped hole and another which is fastened via a nut that sits atop the heatsink fins. Although this works perfectly fine, it is not the desirable result. Scroll down to the final product to see pictures of the screw fastened with a nut. After drilling out the first hole, affix the heatsink onto the GPU with 1 screw & then mark the second hole. This assures proper alignment.
Heatsink without fan Bottom of Heatsink Masking Tape
STEP 4: Drilling the holes
With the hole(s) marked you will now use an 3/32" drill bit and drill the holes into the heatsink. Before starting to drill, put several layers of masking tape over any exposed area of the bottom of the heatsink. This should prevent scratching of the heatsink should the drill bit slip. Apply a drop or two of the cutting and tapping fluid (I used Cool Tool) to assist in drilling into the copper bottom. The 3/32" drill bit should be adequate but if you have problems getting the hole started, start with a 5/64" drill bit to complete the initial hole followed by using the 3/32" drill bit. Do not worry about drilling through the heatsink and into the fins. Hitting the fans should not result in breaking of the fins.
Taped bottom of Heatsink Droplet of Cool Tool Cutting Drilling (picture edited as I initially forgot
Applying drop of Cool Tool and Tapping Fluid to put tape in the center)
STEP 5: Tapping
Tapping creates the threads in the hole allowing the screw to fasten to the heatsink itself. After removing the masking tape that surrounds the holes, you will take the #4-40 tap and "screw" it into the drilled holes. You can also put a few droplets of the cutting and tapping fluid to facilitate the tap. You should leave the masking tape in the center in case the tap slips. If you error in marking the holes resulting in unaligned holes you may have to drill out 1 of the hols. In that case you will not be using the threading created by the tap but instead simply push the screw threw the hole and out to the top of the fins. You would then use a nut to fasten and tighten the heatsink to the GPU/PCB.
STEP 6: Milling the heatsink
This step can be skipped for those who removed the shim. This step will remove a thin layer from the bottom of the heatsink to prevent the shim from interfering with making flush contact with the GPU core. Apply a thin layer of generic thermal paste onto the shim (do not remove the thermal paste on the shim yet). Align the heatsink as though you are seating it and press it flush against the shim/GPU. Pulling back the heatsink will now reveal the traces where the shim is making contact with the heatsink thus indicating where you will mill the bottom of the heatsink. To protect the heatsink, reapply several layers of masking tape to the very center of the heatsink bottom which will come into contact with the GPU core. With the grinding bit attached to the dremel, grind down the area indicated by the traces of the thermal paste. Removing a millimeter or two will allow the heatsink to make flush contact with the GPU core. While the ideal is to remove only the trace area, it is not only difficult to measure the exact trace area (even with the thermal paste trace) but the grinding stone may be wider than the trace path. Consequently, don't be overly concerned if you have to mill down an area wider than the shim. TIP: While it is fine to mill an area greater than the thermal paste traces DO NOT mill too far toward the center as you do not want to mill away any area that will be making contact with the GPU. As such, any excessive milling area should be toward the outside of the heatsink/traces.
Thermal Paste On the Shim Thermal Paste Trace On
Heatsink Bottom Milling Finished
STEP 6: Installation
At last! The final step is to install it. Remove the masking tape from the bottom of the heatsink. But, before making that final install test the depth of your grinding by seating the heatsink. Because you left the generic thermal paste on the shim you will see traces of it on your heatsink if you have not milled deep enough. If you seated the heatsink quickly you may still see minimal bits of the thermal paste on the milled out area due to movements in your hand (or from the thermal paste sticking slightly up after having made previous contact with it) while you quickly slapped it on. With an adequate mill there will not be any traces of thermal paste on the shim area of the heatsink. Once you have an adequate mill, apply generic thermal paste to the core and reseat temporarily. Removing the heatsink should show thermal paste on the heatsink where it made contact with the GPU core. If not, then you probably need to grind down the heatsink area a little more as the shim is preventing the heatsink from making flush contact with the GPU core. Once you have tested to ensure flush contact between the heat it is time to make the final install. Thoroughly clean both the heatsink and the GPU with a lint free cloth and isopropyl alcohol. Apply your preferred thermal paste to the GPU core.
There are 2 methods for affixing the heatsink to the GPU.
Method 1: Direct Pressure Put a nylon washer on each screw and insert it through the back of the PCB board. Align the holes in the heatsink with the screws and slowly fasten. CAUTION: Be aware of the amount of pressure you are exerting. The goal is to make firm contact between the heatsink and the core. The goal is not to crush the core (although I have never heard of that happening it could be done if one milled down too far and then cranked away on the screws disregarding the pressure the screw is exerting). Screw fan back onto heatsink.
Method 2: Indirect Pressure This method can be used if you are concerned about the pressure exerted on the GPU as it helps balance the pressure utilizing springs. The screw size is the same as that used in method 1 (#4-40) but the screw length is .75". The nylon washers used are for #4-48 screws but the size isn't critical (so the washers for #4-40 will be fine). First put a nylon washer on each screw followed by a spring from each of the mounting pushpins that affixed the stock hs/fan. Then put another washer on the screw. You can see how to set up the screws and washers in an image below. You'll now have a screw with a spring between two washers on it. Align the heatsink & fasten it with the screw setup to a point where the springs are loosely tight (see image below). Method 2 was contributed by RDR from the Rage3d forum. Pictures of his modification as well as his discussion of this method can be found on this thread.
Method 1 Rear of PCB. Note the nylon
The Final Product washers. The nut on the right screw was later removed
NOTE: The screw nearest the camera comes all the way through the fins and is fastened by a nut. This was the result of misaligning the holes and having to drill out one of the holes. The fins bent themselves as I pushed/screwed (it was still catching some of the original tap) the screw threw.
Method 2 Rear of PCB. Note the springs between the two washers on the screws.
The screws are #4-40 x .750 socket head cap screws. Phillips screws will suffice as the
SHCS were simply a preference of the modder.
The "gold" memory heatsinks are stock with the Gigabyte Maya II
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS:
These instructions are a derivative of the instructions, suggestions and assistance provided by 5150 Joker and Sergeant Bob on the Rage3d forums.
Thanks for the assistance!
HardOCP thread discussing the mod and instructions posted by 5150 Joker (& credited to medicman). Scroll down about half-way.
http://www.hardforums.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=489451&perpage=15&pagenumber=7