How I avoided using pop rivets on the elevators

I don't like using pop rivets, so here is how I avoided using them on the skin-to-spar rivets on the bottom of the elevator leading edges. I used an 80 inch long "bucking bar" supported at one end and also at each hinge opening. In order to insert the bar, I had to install the counterbalance arm after the skin was riveted to the spar. This resulted in two rivets that were not the easiest to buck. Namely, the tip rib to spar rivets. However, with a long thin bucking bar, these turned out okay (I used a bar that was approximately 3/8" thick).

When riveting the skin to the spar, I started at the inboard end and worked my way out. I used a side-grip cleco to keep the skin tight to the spar before setting the first rivet. Thereafter, the existing rivets kept the skin tight. I also used a few clecos in the outboard holes when first starting out. These were removed after setting the first few rivets so that the elevator would sit flat on the bar. When setting the rivets, I held the elevator slightly above the bar so that the rivet would sit flush in the dimple and gradually lowered the elevator as the rivet set. After getting things setup, it only took about 10 minutes per elevator to set all of the spar to skin rivets.

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Updated 7/6/00