|
1956 Romany 20, 23-R
1957 20-R, 23-R, 27, 27-T
| Model | Length | Sugg. List | Serial # | Weight |
| 20 Rambler | 20' | $3,095 | 700 up | 2,300 |
| 23 Rover | 23' | $3,650 | 510 up | 2,700 |
| 26 Regal | 26' | $4,250 | 900 up | 3,300 |
| 26 Regal T | 26' | $4,450 | 900 up | 3,500 |
| Official Mobile Home Market Report, May 1 1965 |
1958 20, 23, 26, 30
| Model | Length | Sugg. List | Serial # | Weight |
| 20 Explorer | 20' | $3,095 | 1000 up | 2,300 |
| 23 Rover | 23' | $3,695 | 2000 up | 2,700 |
| 26 Regal | 26' | $4,350 | 3000 up | 3,300 |
| 26 Regal Tdm | 26' | $4,450 | 3000 up | 3,500 |
| 30 Imperial | 30' | $5,485 | 4000 up | 3,950 |
| Official Mobile Home Market Report, May 1 1963 |
1959 20, 23, 26, 30
| Model | Length | Sugg. List | Serial # | Weight |
| Explorer | 20' | $3,150 | 1008 up | 2,300 |
| Rover | 23' | $3,850 | 2039 up | 2,700 |
| Regal | 26' | $4,395 | 3047 up | 3,300 |
| Regal Tdm | 26' | $4,634 | 3047 up | 3,500 |
| Imperial | 30' | $5,285 | 4001 up | 3,950 |
| Official Mobile Home Market Report, May 1 1963 |
1960
The Files for the 1960 Avion Brochure
and Models are very slow to load but worth the wait.
20' Tourist — $3,480.00; 21' Sportsman — $3,490.00,
24' Holiday — models H-24TB, H-24DB — $4,213.00;
27' Travelcader — models T-27TB, T-27DB $4,707.00;
30' Imperial — models 1-30TB, 1-30DB $5,587.00
(Models and original prices from Mike Mead).
(1960 Brochure from Lance Kaun)
|
Model |
Length |
Sugg. List |
Serial # |
Weight |
|
21 |
21' |
$3,295 |
1200 |
2,430 |
|
24 |
24' |
$3,975 |
2200 |
2,780 |
|
27 |
27' |
$4,475 |
3200 |
3,390 |
|
27 Tdm |
27' |
$4,714 |
3200 |
3,640 |
|
30 Tdm |
30' |
$5,385 |
4220 |
3,950 |
|
Official Mobile Home Market Report, May 1 1963
|
1961 20, 21, 24, 37, 30
|
Model |
Length |
Sugg. List |
Serial # |
Weight |
|
Tourist 20 |
20' |
$3,480 |
1412 |
2,680 |
|
Sportsman 21 |
21' |
$3,490 |
1220 |
2,430 |
|
Holiday 24 |
24' |
$4,213 |
2300 |
3,010 |
|
Travelcader 27 |
27' |
$4,707 |
3217 |
3,390 |
|
Imperial 30 |
30' |
$5,587 |
4220 |
3,950 |
|
Official Mobile Home Market Report, May 1 1963
|
1962 20, 24, 27, 30
|
Model |
Length |
Sugg. List |
Serial # |
Weight |
|
Tourist 20 |
20' |
$3,585 |
1540 |
2,680 |
|
Holiday 24 |
24' |
$4,360 |
2516 |
3,010 |
|
Travelcader 27 |
27' |
$4,781 |
3362 |
3,390 |
|
Imperial 30 |
30' |
$5,680 |
4250 |
3,950 |
|
Official Mobile Home Market Report, May 1 1963
|
1963 18' Sportsman, 20' Tourist, 24' Holiday, 27' Travelcader, 30' Imperial
— July 1962 Prices
— Owners Manual
1964 18, 21, 24-H, 27-T Travelcader
— Dec 1963 Prices
— 1964 Cover
1965 18' Sportsman, T-21, 24, T-27 Travelcader — C-10 Camper???
1966 T-21, H-25, T-27-Travelcader — C10 Camper
|
Model |
Length |
Sugg. List |
|
Sportsman |
19' 2"' |
$3,929 |
|
Tourist |
21' 6" |
$4,331 |
|
Holiday II Single |
25' 1" |
$5,093 |
|
Holiday II Tandem |
25' 1" |
$5,293 |
|
Travelcader Single |
27' 9" |
$5,498 |
|
Travelcader Tandem |
27' 9" |
$5,698 |
|
Imperial |
30' 9" |
$6,446 |
|
Official Trailer/Camper Trade-In Guide 1971
|
1967 T-21, A-25 Adventurer, H-25, T-27 Travelcader — C10 Camper ?? ???
1967 19, 22, 25, 28, 31
|
Model |
Length |
Sugg. List |
Serial # |
Weight |
|
Sportsman |
19' |
$4,730 |
67-19000 |
2,990 |
|
Tourist |
22' |
$5,470 |
67-22000 |
3,500 |
|
Holiday |
25' |
$6,290 |
67-25000 |
3,890 |
|
Travelcader |
28' |
$6.995 |
67-28000 |
4,480 |
|
Imperial |
31' |
$7,735 |
67-31000 |
5,030 |
|
Benton Harbor, Michigan — Official Mobile Home Market Report, September 1, 1967 |
|
Pick-up Camper SDNT |
10' 3" |
$3,659 |
S-67-1001 |
1,860 |
|
Pick-up Camper G |
10' 3" |
$3,690 |
S-67-1001 |
1,860 |
|
Pick-up Camper FDNT |
10' 3" |
$3,690 |
S-67-1001 |
1,860 |
|
Tourist |
22' 2" |
$5,470 |
S-67-22000 |
3,470 |
|
Holiday |
25' 3" |
$6,490 |
S-67-25000 |
4,285 |
|
Travelcader |
28' 2" |
$6.995 |
S-67-28000 |
4,480 |
|
Imperial |
31' 2" |
$7,735 |
S-67-31000 |
4,985 |
|
San Jacinto, California, — Official Mobile Home Market Report, September 1, 1967
|
|
Model |
Length |
Sugg. List |
Hitch Wt. |
Weight |
|
Sportsman |
19' 4" |
$4,730 |
370 |
2,990 |
|
Tourist |
22' 2" |
$5,470 |
410 |
3,470 |
|
Holiday II Single |
25' 3" |
$6,290 |
495 |
3,890 |
|
Holiday II Tandem |
25' 3" |
$6,490 |
525 |
4,285 |
|
Travelcader |
28' 2" |
$6.995 |
535 |
4,480 |
|
Imperial |
31' 2" |
$7,735 |
540
|
4,985 |
|
Official Trailer/Camper Trade-In Guide 1971
|
1968 T-22, A-25 Adventure H-25, T-28 Travelcader, C-11 Camper ??? ???
|
Model |
Length |
Sugg. List |
Hitch Wt. |
Weight |
|
Tourist |
22' 2" |
$5,470 |
470 |
5,762 |
|
Tourist |
22' 2" |
$5,995 |
425 |
3,785 |
|
Argonaut |
25' 6" |
$6,786 |
435 |
4,285 |
|
Travelcader |
28' 1" |
$7,419 |
550 |
4,380 |
|
Imperial |
31' 2" |
$8,126 |
575 |
5,065 |
|
Official Trailer/Camper Trade-In Guide 1971
|
1969 C-11 Camper, 19, 22, 24, 28, 30,
|
Model |
Length |
Sugg. List |
Hitch Wt. |
Weight |
|
Sports Special |
18' 3" |
$3,995 |
320 |
2,490 |
|
Tourist |
22' 2" |
$5,984 |
470 |
3,500 |
|
Tourist |
22' 2" |
$6,225 |
425 |
3,785 |
|
Argonaut |
25' 6" |
$7,075 |
435 |
4,190 |
|
Travelcader |
28' 1" |
$7,721 |
550 |
4,380 |
|
Imperial |
31' 2" |
$8,126 |
575 |
5,065 |
|
Official Trailer/Camper Trade-In Guide 1971
|
1970 Sport Special Series: 19' Suntrail. Classic Series: 22' Explorer, 24' Adventurer, 26' Yoyageur
1970 Ultra Series: 26' Voyageur, 28' Travelcader, 31' Imperial -- Thanks-Tom DeArk #13639
|
Model |
Length |
Weight |
Sugg. List |
|
Suntrail |
19' |
3,200 |
4,560 |
|
Explorer |
22' |
3,785 |
6,291 |
|
Adventurer |
24' |
3,200 |
6,987 |
|
Voyager |
26' |
4,200 |
7,682 |
|
Voyager |
26' |
4,200 |
8,388 |
|
Travelcader |
28' |
4,380 |
8,868 |
|
Imperial |
31' |
5,065 |
9,394 |
|
Kelley Blue Book, April thru September 1979
|
|
Model |
Length |
Sugg. List |
Hitch Wt. |
Weight |
|
Suntrail (Sports Special) |
19' 7" |
$4,560 |
320 |
2,490 |
|
Explorer (Classic) |
22' 2" |
$6,291 |
470 |
3,500 |
|
Adventurer (Classic) |
24' 6" |
$6,986 |
425 |
3,815 |
|
Voyager (Classic) |
26' 3" |
$7,682 |
480 |
4,260 |
|
Voyager (Ultra) |
26' 3" |
$8,.388 |
480 |
4,330 |
|
Travelcader (Ultra) |
28' 2" |
$8,868 |
550 |
4,380 |
|
Imperial (Ultra) |
31' 2" |
$9,394 |
575 |
5,065 |
|
Official Trailer/Camper Trade-In Guide 1971
|
1971 22-Explorer, 26-Voyageur, 28' Travelcader, 31' Imperial
|
Model |
Length |
Weight |
Sugg. List |
|
Explorer |
22' |
3,850 |
5,590 |
|
Voyager |
26' |
4,325 |
6,269 |
|
Travelcader |
28' |
4,525 |
7,090 |
|
Imperial |
31 ½' |
5,100 |
9,000 |
|
Kelley Blue Book, April thru September 1979
|
1972 31' La Grande, a 31' Imperial, 28' travelcader, 25' Voyageur. — Thanks Hubert Hurst.

Avion Sales Brochures Brochures Wanted Send a digital scan of your pre 1980 Sales Brochure.
1972 Avion 24 Page Sales Brochure from Pat Rosend, Fairfax, VA:
Page 1 -
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3 -
4 -
4 -
6 -
7 -
8 -
9 -
10 -
11 -
12 -
13 -
14 -
15 -
16 -
17 -
18 -
19 -
20 -
21 -
22 -
23 -
24
|
Model |
Length |
Weight |
Sugg. List |
|
Voyager |
26' |
4,425 |
8,375 |
|
Travelcader |
28' |
4,770 |
9,450 |
|
Imperial |
31 ½' |
5,320 |
10,600 |
|
LeGrande |
26' |
4,425 |
9.214 |
|
LeGrande |
28' |
4,770 |
10,334 |
|
LeGrande |
31 ½' |
5,320 |
11,534 |
|
Kelley Blue Book, April thru September 1979
|
1973 Travelcader: 25', 28', 31'. LaGrande: 25', 28', 31'
|
Model |
Length |
Weight |
Sugg. List |
|
Travelcader |
25' |
4,840 |
8,450 |
|
LeGrande |
25' |
4,840 |
9,200 |
|
Travelcader |
28' |
5,090 |
9,600 |
|
LeGrande |
28' |
5,090 |
10,400 |
|
Travelcader |
31' |
5,880 |
10,700 |
|
LeGrande |
31' |
5,880 |
11,650 |
|
NADA RV Appraisal Guide May-Aug 1994.
|
|
Model |
Length |
Weight |
Sugg. List |
|
Travelcader |
25' |
4,720 |
8,450 |
|
Travelcader |
28' |
5,090 |
9,600 |
|
Travelcader |
31' |
5,680 |
10,700 |
|
LeGrande |
25' |
4,720 |
9,200 |
|
LeGrande |
28' |
5,090 |
10,400 |
|
LeGrande |
31' |
5,680 |
11,650 |
|
Kelly Blue Book, April-September 1979
|
1974 Travelcader: 26', 28', 31'. LaGrande: 26', 28', 31'
|
Model |
Length |
Weight |
Sugg. List |
|
Travelcader |
26' |
4,720 |
8,950 |
|
LeGrande |
26' |
4,720 |
9,748 |
|
Travelcader |
28' |
5,090 |
10,153 |
|
LeGrande |
28' |
5,090 |
11,007 |
|
Travelcader |
31' |
5,880 |
11,346 |
|
LeGrande |
31' |
5,880 |
12,353 |
|
NADA RV Appraisal Guide May-Aug 1994.
|
|
Model |
Length |
Weight |
Sugg. List |
|
Travelcader |
26' |
4,720 |
9,011 |
|
LeGrande |
26' |
4,720 |
9,811 |
|
Travelcader |
28' |
5,090 |
10,389 |
|
LeGrande |
28' |
5,090 |
11,246 |
|
Travelcader |
31' |
5,680 |
11,706 |
|
LeGrande |
31' |
5,680 |
12,715 |
|
Kelley Blue Book, April-September 1979.
|
1975 All American 24', Travelcader: 26', 28', 31'. LaGrande: 26', 28', 31' - 22-MH
1975 Avion GMC 23' and 26' Motorhomes GMC Avion (Both TT and MH interiors)
1975 Avion Class A 38' Aluminium bodied Motorhome.
|
Model |
Length |
Weight |
Sugg. List |
|
All American |
24' |
3,600 |
7,350 |
|
Travelcader |
26½' |
4,720 |
9,925 |
|
LeGrande |
26½' |
4,720 |
10,764 |
|
Travelcader |
28½' |
5,090 |
11,398 |
|
LeGrande |
28½' |
5,090 |
12,298 |
|
Travelcader |
31½' |
5,680 |
12,852 |
|
LeGrande |
31½' |
5,680 |
13,911 |
|
Kelley Blue Book, April-September 1979.
|
|
Length |
Model |
Weight |
Sugg. List |
|
24' |
All-American |
3,600 |
7,350 |
|
26½' |
Travelcader |
4,720 |
9,925 |
|
28½' |
Travelcader |
5,090 |
11,398 |
|
31½' |
Travelcader |
5,680 |
12,852 |
|
31½' |
LeGrande |
5,880 |
|
|
1980 RVDA Price Quide & NADA RV Appraisal Guide May-Aug 1994.
|
1976 All American 23' Travelcader: 26', 28', 31'. LaGrande: 26', 28', 31' 22-MH
|
Model |
Length |
Weight |
Sugg. List |
|
All American |
23' |
3,600 |
7,869 |
|
Travelcader |
23' |
3,800 |
9,666 |
|
Travelcader |
26' |
4,720 |
10,525 |
|
LeGrande |
26' |
4,720 |
11,364 |
|
Travelcader |
28' |
5,090 |
11,998 |
|
LeGrande |
28' |
5,080 |
12,897 |
|
Travelcader |
31' |
5,880 |
13,452 |
|
LeGrande |
31' |
5,880 |
14,510 |
Kelley Blue Book 1980
NADA RV Appraisal Guide May-Aug 1994.
|
1977 Travelcader: 26', 28', 31'. LaGrande: 26', 28', 31'— 22-MH
1977 1977 MH22
|
Model |
Length |
Weight |
Sugg. List |
|
Travelcader |
23' |
4,080 |
10,149 |
|
Travelcader |
26' |
4,720 |
11,049 |
|
LeGrande |
26' |
4,720 |
11,932 |
|
Travelcader |
28' |
5,090 |
12,598 |
|
LeGrande |
28' |
5,080 |
13,542 |
|
Travelcader |
31' |
5,880 |
14,124 |
|
LeGrande |
31' |
5,880 |
15,236 |
Kelley Blue Book 1980
NADA RV Appraisal Guide May-Aug 1994.
|
1978 Rear Bath: 23-M, 26-F, 28-J, 30-P (9.1 Meter) , 34-V. Side Bath:, 23-C, 23-D, 26-H, 28-M, 30-R, 34-W. — 22-MH
|
Model |
Length |
Weight |
Sugg. List |
|
23-C, 23-D |
23' |
4,315 |
10,500 |
|
26-F, 26-H |
26' |
4,822 |
10.780 |
|
28-J, 28-M |
28' |
5,420 |
11,200 |
|
30-P, 30-R |
30' |
5,820 |
11,620 |
|
34-V, 34-W |
34' |
6,742 |
12,320 |
|
NADA RV Appraisal Guide May-Aug 1994.
|
|
Model |
Length |
Weight |
Sugg. List |
|
23-C, 23-D |
23' |
4,402 |
13,200 |
|
26-F, 26-H |
26' |
5,067 |
13,500 |
|
28-J, 28-M |
28' |
5,420 |
14,700 |
|
30-P, 30-R |
30' |
5,820 |
15,450 |
|
34-V, 34-W |
34' |
6,742 |
16,950 |
|
Kelly Blue Book April-June 1980
|
1979 Rear Bath: 26-F, 28-J, 30-P, 32-S, 34-V. Side Bath: 23-D, 26-H, 28-M, 30-R, 32-T, 34-W — 22-MH
|
Model |
Length |
Weight |
Sugg. List |
|
7½-F, 7½-H |
26' |
5,067 |
15,862 |
|
8½-J, 8½-M |
28' |
5,420 |
17,361 |
|
9-P, 9-R |
30' |
5,860 |
18,002 |
|
32-S, 32-T |
32' |
6,173 |
19,130 |
|
10-V, 10-W |
34' |
6,522 |
19,757 |
|
NADA RV Appraisal Guide May-Aug 1994.
|
|
Model |
Length |
Weight |
Sugg. List |
|
23-C, 23-D |
23' |
4,402 |
15,310 |
|
26-F, 26-H |
26' |
5,067 |
16,450 |
|
28-J, 28-M |
28' |
5,420 |
17,361 |
|
30-P, 30-R |
30' |
5,820 |
18,670 |
|
34-V, 34-W |
34' |
6,742 |
20,490 |
|
Kelly Blue Book, April-June 1980.
|
1980 Rear Bath: 26-F, 28-J, 30-P, 32-S, 34-V. Side Bath: 23-D, 26-H, 28-M, 30-R, 32-T, 34-W.
|
Model |
Length |
Weight |
Sugg. List |
|
26-F, 26-H |
26' |
5,077 |
16,450 |
|
28-J, 28-M |
28' |
5,420 |
18,005 |
|
30-P, 30-R |
30' |
5,820 |
18,670 |
|
32-S, 32-T, |
32' |
6,213 |
19,838 |
|
34-V, 34-W |
34' |
6,522 |
20,490 |
|
NADA RV Appraisal Guide May-Aug 1994.
|
1981 Rear Bath: 34-V.
|
Model |
Length |
Weight |
Sugg. List |
|
34-V |
34' |
6,940 |
22,190 |
|
NADA RV Appraisal Guide May-Aug 1994.
|
1982 Rear Bath: 34-V, 30-P. 1982 Sales Brochure
|
Model |
Length |
Weight |
Sugg. List |
|
34-V |
34' |
7,060 |
23,809 |
|
NADA RV Appraisal Guide May-Aug 1994.
|
1983 Rear Bath: 30-P, 34-V.
9.1 Meters = 30' models and 10.7 Meters- 34' models
1983 1983 Spec Sheet
1983 1983 Sales Brochure 3/83
|
Model |
Length |
Weight |
Sugg. List |
|
30-P |
30' |
5,840 |
23,575 |
|
34-V |
34' |
6,940 |
26,825 |
|
NADA RV Appraisal Guide May-Aug 1994.
|
1984 Rear Bath: 30-P, 34-V Side Bath: 30-R, 34-W.
1984 1984 Sales Brochure
1984 1984 Trailer Life 30-R Review
|
Model |
Length |
Weight |
Sugg. List |
|
30-P |
30' |
5,320 |
24,138 |
|
30-R |
30' |
6,080 |
24,826 |
|
34-V |
34' |
6,940 |
27,486 |
|
34-W |
34' |
6,730 |
28,296 |
|
NADA RV Appraisal Guide May-Aug 1994.
|
1985 Rear Bath: 30-P, 34-V Side Bath: 25-H, 30-R, 34-W.
1985 1985 Sales Brochure, (the 25-H was a late addition to the line)
|
Model |
Length |
Weight |
Sugg. List |
|
25-H |
25' |
5,050 |
22,093 |
|
30-P |
30' |
5,840 |
26,593 |
|
30-R |
30' |
6,080 |
27,622 |
|
34-V |
34' |
7,084 |
30,198 |
|
34-W |
34' |
6,875 |
31,192 |
|
NADA RV Appraisal Guide May-Aug 1994.
|
1986 Rear Bath: 30-P, 34-V Side Bath: 25-H, 30-R, 32-S, 34-W.
1986 Silver Edition 30-P, 30-R, 32-S, 34-V, 34-W
1986 1986 Sales Brochure
|
Model |
Length |
Weight |
Sugg. List |
|
25-H |
25' |
4.975 |
24,445 |
|
30-P |
30' |
5,840 |
27,295 |
|
30-R |
30' |
5,800 |
28,325 |
|
32-S |
32' |
6,100 |
29,470 |
|
34-V |
34' |
7,085 |
30,900 |
|
34-W |
34' |
6,875 |
31,895 |
| Silver Edition — 25th Anniverary Travelcade Club |
|
Silver Edition 30-P |
30' |
6,090 |
30,510 |
|
Silver Edition 30-R |
30' |
6,050 |
31,540 |
|
Silver Edition 32-S |
32' |
6,100 |
32,685 |
|
Silver Edition 34-V |
34' |
7,335 |
35,730 |
|
Silver Edition 34-W |
34' |
7,125 |
35,028 |
|
NADA RV Appraisal Guide May-Aug 1994.
|
1987 Rear Bath: 30-P, 34-V Side Bath: 25-H, 32-S, 34-W Center Bath 34-X.
1987 Avion Brochure (8 panels).
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Page 6 -
Page 7 -
Page 8. - Thanks to Fred Meyers.
1987 1987 Sales Brochure Edition 2
|
Model |
Length |
Weight |
Sugg. List |
|
25-H |
25' |
4,975 |
24,808 |
|
30-P |
30' |
5,840 |
28,301 |
|
32-S |
32' |
6,100 |
30,310 |
|
34-V |
34' |
7,085 |
31,990 |
|
34-W |
34' |
6,880 |
32,991 |
|
34-X |
34' |
6,880 |
32,991 |
|
NADA RV Appraisal Guide May-Aug 1994.
|
1988 Rear Bath: 30-P, 34-V Side Bath: 32-S, 34-W Center Bath 34-X.
1988 1988 Sales Brochure
|
Model |
Length |
Weight |
Sugg. List |
|
30-P |
30' |
5,840 |
30,739 |
|
32-S |
32' |
6,100 |
32,697 |
|
34-V |
34' |
7,085 |
34,607 |
|
34-W |
34' |
6,875 |
35,262 |
|
34-X |
34' |
6,880 |
35,444 |
|
NADA RV Appraisal Guide May-Aug 1994.
|
1989 Rear Bath: 30-P, 34-V Side Bath: 28-A, 32-S, 34-W Center Bath 34-X
1989 Travelcaders 28-TA, 30-TP Basement Models 34-VB, 34-XB
1989 Edition 2 Sales Brochure (Jan 1989) (very large files)
Page 1 -
2 -
3 -
4 -
5 -
6 -
7 -
8 -
9 -
10 -
11 -
12 - from
Jim_Morrison49@yahoo.com
|
Model |
Length |
Weight |
Sugg. List |
|
28-A |
28' |
5,400 |
32,737 |
|
30-P |
30' |
5,840 |
32,845 |
|
32-S |
32' |
6,100 |
34,978 |
|
34-V |
34' |
7,085 |
36,747 |
|
34-W |
34' |
6,875 |
37,509 |
|
34-X |
34' |
6,880 |
37,651 |
| Travelcader Series: |
|
28-TA Travelcader |
28' |
5,165 |
25,310 |
|
30-TP Travelcader |
30' |
5,535 |
25,580 |
| Basement Models: |
|
34-VB |
34' |
7,900 |
40,331 |
|
34-XB |
34' |
7,890 |
41,235 |
|
NADA RV Appraisal Guide May-Aug 1994.
|
1990 Rear Bath: 30-P, 34-V Side Bath: 28-A 32-S Center Bath 34-X
1990 Travelcaders 28-TA, 30-TP Basement Models 34-VB, 34-XB
1990 Fifth Wheel 38.5M
1990 1990 Basement Model Brochure
1990 1990 Standard Avion Trailer Brochure
1990 1990 38.5M Fifth Wheel Brochure
|
Model |
Length |
Weight |
Sugg. List |
|
28-A |
28' |
5,400 |
34,600 |
|
30-P |
30' |
5,840 |
35,106 |
|
32-S |
32' |
6,100 |
37,806 |
|
34-V |
34' |
7,085 |
39,298 |
|
34-X |
34' |
6,880 |
40,446 |
| Travelcader Series: |
|
28-TA Travelcader |
28' |
5,165 |
26,866 |
|
30-TP Travelcader |
30' |
5,535 |
27,303 |
| Basement Models: |
|
34-VB |
34' |
7,900 |
43,767 |
|
34-XB |
34' |
7,890 |
44,833 |
| Fifth Wheel Model: |
|
38 5M |
38' |
9,365 |
49,950 |
|
NADA RV Appraisal Guide May-Aug 1994.
|
1991 Trailers 31-N, 37-A Fifth Wheel 29.5-T, 31.5-F, 33.5-J, 35.5-P, 35.5-P
1991 1991 specification Sheet
1992 Trailers 31-N, 37-A Fifth Wheel 29.5-T, 31.5-F, 33.5-J, 34.5-G,35.5-P, 35.5-M
1993 Trailers 34-Y Fifth Wheel 29.5-T, 30.5-E, 31.5-F, 33.5-J, 34.5-G, 35.5-P, 35.5-M
1994 Fifth Wheel 30.5-E, 31.5-F, 33.5-J, 34.5-G, 35.5-M
1995 Fifth Wheel 30.5-E, 33.5-K, 34.5-J, 35.5-G, 35.5-M
1995 1995 specification Pages
1996 Fifth Wheel 34.5-R, 36.5-M, 36.5-W
1997 Fifth Wheel 34.5-D, 37.5-L, 37.5-W
1998 Fifth Wheel 33.5-C, 34 5-D, 37 5-L, 37.5-V, 37 5-W
1999 Fifth Wheel 33.5-C, 37 5-L, 37.5-V, 37 5-W
2000 Fifth Wheel 37 5-R, 37.5-V, 37 5-W
2000 2000 partial specification Pages
2001 No models for 2001!
2002 Fifth Wheel 32.5F, 33.5F: Platinum & Vintage
Do you know the size and models of Avions not listed above?
Send information on Modals we do have listed. Thanks to those who have contributed to this list.
OWNERS MANUALS
complete or partial that they will copy.
(Obviously you should pay copy and postage costs plus some extra for their time and effort)
For Recent Prices on Common Parts
— Online Manuals —
— Motor Homes —
— Truck Campers —
— Avion Trailers —
— Avion Fifth Wheel Trailers —
Do you have an Avion / Cayo Owner's Manual?
Send Year and details if you are willing to share. Thanks to those who have contributed to this list.
Return to the Index
Repair Needs, Questions Solutions & Miscellaneous
Have a repair question, answer, suggestion?
CLICK HERE to send your item for the Repair Section Thanks to those who have contributed to this list.
Awning — Common Repairs from ZipDee —
How to operate your Zip Dee Awning
Check for Leaks — Several owners have reported that you should check for leakage around (rather behind) the Upper Zip Dee Mounting brackets. Seems they were installed on a seam and the rivet heads were removed so they could be mounted flush but over time the sealer between the bracket and the skin has worked loose allowing water to get behind the bracket mount and into the holes where the rivet heads were removed. So check and sealing this area can prevent problems from an unknown leak — DrG
Missing Parts — Carefree Awnings. (6/21/) I have a 1994 Avion 36 ft fifth wheel. The inside awning supports buckled under weight of water(I thought I had the awning tilted enough but not). The rv dealer told me that he could not order the parts because they did not make them anymore. The inside awning supports are the ones that attach the side of the unit and slide into the outside awning supports which attach to the awning. The inside supports have holes in the sides for various heights of the awning. Can I order these from anyone? [DEG - Contact Domestric. Current address is listed in out contacts}
Thank you for your response. Contacted Dometic and they gave me name of suppliler who is sending parts to me.
(7/8/01): — Dometic when I contacted them referred me to company named All Seasons with phone number 1-800-344-0673. I called them and received most warm and courteous reception from a business that I have ever received. After I described my product need, it was shipped to me within a week. The RV dealer in Dothan, al told me that I needed to order a complete new awning for over $1,000 and All Seasons cost me a grand total of $78
plus shipping to restore awnings to 100% status.:(7/8/2001). Robert Earl Stewart - RStewart@trojan.troyst.edu.
Awning Improvement — (3/1/2002) - One thing that I did on my unit that I thought was a good idea was I lengthened the center brace for the awning about three or four inches allowing me to install the brace wrong side up thus keeping the brace from rubbing the awning. Of course you have to invert the brace/awning connection but the brace doesn't rub the awning turn it back around for stowing.. Hope that makes sense if not I'll draw you a picture. Avionly yours. No love & Kisses but plenty respect.. ShakeyH@msn.com - James Hope #7767.
Return to the Index
BODY WORK — aluminium & roof
Clutch Head
Screw
| | Originated by United Screw and Bolt. The recess in clutch heads looks like a bowtie. In a pinch, a clutch head screw can be driven by a slotted screwdriver. A worn tip on a driver can easily be restored by grinding off the end. Clutch head screws were popular in mobile home construction and electric motors. The size is the diameter in inches of the bit point. 1/8", 5/32", 3/16", 1/4", 5/16". The most common size in RV's is 5/32".
|
Square Head
 Screw
| | The square recess design was invented by P. L. Robertson in 1908. Its advantages are great resistance to camout and 4 possible positions for the driver. Henry Ford used such screws in the Model A, but dropped it when Robertson refused to give him exclusive rights to its use. Many recreational vehicles use these screws. The most common size in RV's is #2.
|

1973-1990 Generic Body Panel identifier for ordering body parts from Cayo
Cayo can supply all body parts from 1957-1990
Check Hardware for Fiberglass Replacement Parts
CAYO Repair Service
Highly Recommended for Repair &
Restoration of Cayo and Aluminum Avions
4835 M-140 Watervliet, Michigan 49098
Telephone (269) 463-5068 Fax (269) 463-5073
Hour: 7:00 am to 4:00 pm Eastern
|
Unknown Leak Sources -- Check for Leaks — Check you Rain Cap over the door. Over time just the flexing of the body may have broken the seal between the cap and the skin allowing water to get under the cap and to leak into the body. Remove and reapply or reseal. In a heavy rain feel your inside walls below the aluminum seam inside and if you feel dampness (water) on the wall you have a leak somewhere above. Also check the walls where they meet the floor and check for dampness. Walls feel cold and not sure if it is dampness or coldness you are feeling, use a Kleenex Tissue which will quickly reveal rather it is dampness or coldness you are feeling. Several owners have reported that you should check for leakage around (rather behind) the Upper Zip Dee Mounting brackets. Seems they were installed on a seam and the rivet heads were removed so they could be mounted flush but over time the sealer between the bracket and the skin has worked loose allowing water to get behind the bracket mount and into the holes where the rivet heads were removed. So check and sealing this area can prevent problems from an unknown leak If you are checking for leaks with a water hose, be careful that you don't spray water UP the drain holes in the bottom of the window! — DrG
|
Polishing Oxidized Aluminum -- Best Polishing Site — This is the best site for aluminium polishing information and techniques. Chris Fellers — 1961 Avion H-24 "Holiday" owner from Wisconsin, has posted comments at the bottom about polishing his Avion along with before and after photos. Remember this is only valid for the 1957-1962 Aluminium Avions. Not Anodized Aluminum Models from 1962 to 1988 or the Dura-Coated (perma-coat) 1989-1990 models. (8/16/2005)
There is no better instructions than here for compounding and polishing. Bar none. — Chris.
|
|
Polishing Oxidized Aluminum -- We bought a used 35' Silver Edition Avion (1986 vintage) after we rolled our '89 front kitchen a year ago. It had stood on a lot in Florida with salt air and spray assaulting its finish for almost ten years before we came along. It was severely oxidized and needed other help, as well. The other help we have completed, but the exterior still needs additional refurbishing.
Do any of the visitors to the Web Site know of a polish or treatment which will help an anodized aluminum finish? So far, I've used everything which has come my way, including Metal (good stuff), #7 Rubbing Compound (also good stuff), Meguiar's cleaning compound (good result), Turtle Wax Rubbing Compound (not so hot), and several which were less than adequate, to be generous to them. These included Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish, Quick 'n Brite, Gel Gloss, Lite Touch and Turtle Wax Color Back.
After using those rubbing compounds, I've used either Pledge (Lemon Fresh scent) or 303, and the 303 is hands down the better polish.
One of the most spectacular products used was Selco Shine, which put a gorgeous shine on the trailer after not too awfully much scrubbing and polishing. However, it didn't stay--it looked almost as bad a couple weeks later as it did originally. Bled through.
The difficulty is that I work on it, using a power rotary detailer and changeable head covers, then polish it all up and a week or so later the streaks and oxidation bleeds through and shows all over again. It feels nice and smooth, but looks tacky.
If anyone can steer me toward the appropriate product to clean this up, I'd be most appreciative. Write to me at Iona1@juno.com with any suggestions.
Aluminum Polishing — From: Maurice Catellier — mfdc@escape.ca, 13 Mar 2000 Subject: Aluminum Polishing Hi. — I saw your article about your problems with oxidized Avion skin. I had the same problem with mine, ( '85 Model R) . Nothing I tried ever seemed to work. Finally , I bit the bullet and ordered 2 gallons of clearcoat from an Airstream Dealer. (Can Am Trailers). I cleaned the trailer all over with soap and water. Then I wiped it all over with a residue remover (from body shop supply). Finally, I masked all the windows, lights, etc. and sprayed the whole two gallons on. It immediately looked like new and still does almost three years later. The reason I did it this way is that I had an Airstream that was factory clearcoated and it always looked clean with no water streaks or stain ever showing. The Can Am Trailer service rep told me that this was the way they had been restoring Avions for a long time. I tried a small patch with ordinary clearcoat before buying the Airstream stuff and it worked great. I was told to use Airstream Clearcote because it was specially formulated for aluminum which expands and contracts a lot with varying temperatures, and that ordinary clearcoat would crack. The only drawback was that it was quite expensive stuff. Somewhere around $150 a gallon, if I remember . But , it was worth every penny to see that beautiful new trailer look. It is a bit difficult to spray on. Hope this helps. — Maurice Catellier — mfdc@escape.ca
Perma Cote — October 8, 2000 — Hal Steis - HalandAlice@penn.com — Dr. G Just got back from Cayo Repair in Michigan. Had the Avion out there for a Perma-Cote job. He did a wonderful job on it. It looks like it's brand new. It certainly is worth the trip and expense. Just thought I'd let you know in case anyone asks you about what to do with an Avion that has a problem with oxidization of the skin. Hal Steis 10609.
Polishing Anodized Aluminum — August 1, 2002 —
PerfectPolish — Anodizing produces a very tough and hard crystalline surface. Light polishing won't remove it. Even polishing with the most aggressive polish probably won't faze it either. Since the anodizing is so hard to remove it's best just to clean and brighten it. The matte finish will always be there. This assumes that the skins were heavily anodized. I have seen aluminum that had only a very light anodizing but more than likely those trailers have a good solid coating. I really don't know what would work best to clean and brighten them. You can try our polish but in all probability other products would work as well at a considerable lower cost. — Tom Numelin - PerfectPolish
Polishing Anodized Aluminium — September 1, 2002 —
FLITZ - info@flitz.com —
Flitz.com
Q - Will Flitz work on the anodized surface of Avion Travel Trialers to remove the oxidation? A - Flitz works great on anodized aluminum.
Q - What amount of Flitz one would need to polish a 34' Avion? A - the large tube 5.3 oz should do the trick
Protecting your Anodized Aluminium finish — September 1, 2002 —
PatHuber@protectall.com —
ProtectAll.com - Reply sent to
Bob Muncy,
SAF
Bob, Protect All and Protect All Shine Plus are exactly the same product. We found too many RV'ers didn't realize they could use Protect All inside as well as outside so we got sneaky and designed a separate label. My associate here tells me Avions are anodized aluminum and not meant to be shiny. They are supposed to have a matte finish. Protect All will not make it shiny but it will still provide it's slick protective coating. Best Regards,
Patrick Huber, VP, Ops & IS
Protect All, Inc. - www.protectall.com. (800) 322-4491. - Fax: (714) 635-9716. Clean, polish, wax & treat every surface inside & out. — [I personally recommend this product. DEG.]
Rivets for aluminum trailers. — Lately there have been several questions on removing the inner and outer panels of aluminum so we asked Tom DeArk about the subject for those owners are novices with rivets and Tom has recommended these sites to raise your knowledge.
Airstream Forums: Rivet removal and installation:
http://www.airstreamforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=23
Do you know of other Rivet How To sites?
Return to the Index
WANTED - TIPS on Roof Seam Sealing or Roof Coatings?
August 30, 2000 — Leaking Roof —
BellSeaya@aol.com —
Please tell me what the best way is to fix a roof that leaks. I have tried the snow coat stuff, but there is still a leak and I don't know what else to use.
Wanted— Door for 1984 Avion — We are interested in obtaining a door for a l984 30 foot Avion. (8/21/2000). If you can be of assistance please send information E-mail to BLG23@Juno.com
November 29, 2000 — Roof Seals — Mike Irwin — I've see a number of questions regarding roof sealants for seam sealing. There is a product used daily in the marine industry called 5200, by 3M. The marine repair folks even use it to bed hardware in decks and the like. It is a very permanent sealer, should not be used where anything need be removed ( unless you are willing to cut it loose). It is available at all marine supply houses, and quite a number of hardware stores. While on the roof topic, anything I should know about getting around on the roof of my 34' basement model?? Mike Irwin — irishayes123@yahoo.com -
Dometic when I contacted them referred me to a company named All Seasons
with phone number 1-800-344-0673. I called them and received most warm
and courteous reception from a business that I have ever received.
After I described my product need, it was shipped to me within a week.
The rv dealer in Dothan, al told me that I needed to order a complete
new awning for over $1,000 and All Seasons cost me a grand total of $78
plus shipping to restore awnings to 100% status.
Tape Stripes — Several people have written lately about replacing tape stripes on some of the "Striped Avion" Models. The Tape is called ScotchCal made by 3M and is regular automotive striping but there were several colors used and many were custom made for Avion in custom widths. Solution: Find a color you like and if the width does not match order a wider size and cut to the desired width. 3m ScotchCal
— Bill Rahm - WORahm@AOL.COM supplied the contact. You can order from most automotive stores or contact a local body shop or a sign shop who can order the tape for you. You can also order direct from 3M from their website..
1987 Stripes are 1½" Blue Metallic color code 0127 - not currently available through retail channels.
Send in your year and color and size and if anyone comes up with a close substitute let us know.
Check messages dated July 30, 2001 for further updates on Tape.
Fiberglass Door Panels — Tom & Roberta Cockcroft - tomnbert@escapees.com — I have a 1995 Avion 36.5 fifth wheel the fiberglass on the access panels have always had a blister type bubble effect, it hasn't really bothered me till now the panel popped out at the top on the water/sewer panel. Is there a fix for this problem. (8/20/2001). Tom Cockcroft #17307
Fiberglass Bubble — I have a 92 - 29T and have a bubble under the skin near the front. Don't know if this is common but need good service. I feel if it is not done right the first time it will be a problem for ever. I would like to know of a reputable place that does this type of repair and stands behind thier work. I would even welcome info on how to do it myself. (10/05/2001). John Schult — Email: JSJONDEE@aol.com
Vinyl Trim (Welting) for trailer — Thanks for the address of Cayo Repair Service. I called them & they knew exactly the moulding or trim that I was asking about & had it in stock in either RED or BLACK. The price is sixty nine cents (69¢) per foot. Thanks again. (1/8/2002) — Ray Cutler — Email: RayCutler@intrastar.net.
Vent Cover — Gail — Needed to find a vent cover for ceiling fans in 1976 LaGrande. Fleetwood gave me the phone # for CAYO Repair Inc., 4835 M-140, Watervliet, Michigan 49098. Telephone (269) 463-5068, FAX (269) 463-5073 (updated May 11, 2002) The gentleman at Cayo said that they fabricate this and other parts for our older (but better) Avions. Cayo, I understand is a very short distance from the Avion mfg. plant. Don't know the connection but notice that Avion/Cayo on some of your references. Very nice man and helpful. Been looking for this for 3 years. Also helped with a problem with sticky walls. Be Happy Campers. (2/22/2002).
Gail.
Roof Sealer — Bill Rahm - WORahm@AOL.COM.
— Dr. G. I recently found a marvelous roof sealing product that works really well on Classic Avions. It is named
Eternabond. Eternabond
is a 4" wide sealing tape that can be applied right over existing sealing compounds.
It will seal roof seams permanently. The installation was easy and it looked much better then caulking and other sealing
compounds I have used on my Avion. It took me about 2 hours to seal the roof seams on my 1987, 30P Model Avion.
Eternabond
can be coated with a silver UV protectorant to match the silver color of the Classic Avions. Eternabond
can even be applied in cold weather. I was able to order a 50' Seam Repair kit, with Silver UV protectorant directly from the factory.
The cost was $69.00. You can learn all you need to know about this wonderful product by visiting...
www.eternabond.com or
Eternabond Leak Repair - Frequently Asked Questions. You can contact Eternabond at (847) 540-0600. You will find them extremely friendly and helpful. This product really works. (8/03). Bill Rahm
Slide Not Working on 1992 Avion ? —Sirppa Wetter - JKWetter@earthlink.net — have a 1992 Avion 29 foot Fifth Wheel trailer with a slide-out unit that failed. I have replaced the "slide-out room controller ", Fleetwood P/N F97-0004 and Barker Mfg. Co. P/N 19215. The toggle switch on the control panel checks good. I have removed the 3' x 3' panel underneath the trailer to access the motor and have checked the motor by connecting a hot lead directly - it checks good (it works). Is there a solenoid switch somewhere? I could not find one. Anyone have any ideas other than taking it to a service center. Any and all help will be greatly appreciated. (9/7/2003). — John Wetter
Return to the Index
BRAKES
Suggestions Needed —
Last year on a trip to Colorado, one hub (twin axle) would get quite hot. We stopped and were told our only that brake was working.
The shop we took it to fixed the brake and we were on our way. Today we went to get the trailer and get her ready for a trip to Glacier
and Banf, and wouldn't you know it, that wheel was hot again and the brakes don't seem to be working.
Does anyone know of quirks with these brakes? Any help would be greatly appreciated. (7/16/00). DanielDaynas@email.msn.com.
Champion Trailer Parts - Brake Articles
Brakes and Shock Absorber replacement — 1987 Avion 32-S. Harvey Barlow. I recently removed the wheels and brake drums to perform brake and bearing maintenance. The brakes appeared to be original and were well worn so I bought a set of four new loaded brake backing plates from Southwest Wheel http://www.southwestwheel.com The backing plates come with new brake linings, magnets, and all hardware and sell for approximately $45/wheel. While the brakes were off, I decided to remove and test the shock absorbers as well. The shocks didn't offer much resistance to compression or rebound so I decided to replace them also. (This trailer is equipped with Dexter leaf springs and independent stub axles called "Adjust-A-Ride by Avion) My local Dexter parts dealer could not order individual shocks from his catalog, only pairs of shocks complete with all installation hardware for new trailer installation. The kits sold for $80/axle. I didn't need the kits so I sent an e-mail to Dexter. The reply I received indicated I could order individual shocks from Dexter with P/N 052-003-00 which retail for $32.45. The Dexter spokesman also advised that Dexter shocks are manufactured by Monroe and Monroe P/N 19176 is identical. I went to my local NAPA store where the Monroe P/N was crossed to a NAPA number and I bought the shocks for about $27/ea. NAPA sells repackaged Monroe shocks. NAPA p/n 555001 is the substitute provided by my NAPA parts counter salesman. The shock fit the Avion perfectly with no modifications or adapters required. Hope this information helps someone attempting to perform similar repairs. Harvery Barlow - HarveyBarlow@sbcglobal.net
November 26, 2003 — Harvey Barlow — HarveyBarlow@sbcglobal.net —
Suggestions: ?
Return to the Index
ELECTRICAL
4-5-6-7 Pin Wiring Codes
| 6 | Green | Right Turn & Brake Light | 4-5-6-7-way connectors |
| 5 | Yellow | Left Turn & Brake Light | 4-5-6-7-way connectors |
| 3 | Brown | Tail / Marker Lights | 4-5-6-7-way connectors |
| 1 | White | Ground | 4-5-6-7-way connectors |
| 4 | Red | Auxiliary Power Line | 5-6-7-way connectors |
| 2 | Blue | Electric Brake Line | 6-7-way connectors |
| 7 | Purple | Backup Lights | 7-way connector |
7-Way Plug Car End

Graphics from
C.R. Brophy Machine Works, Inc.
7-Way Plug Trailer End
Some middle to late 1980's Avions used nine pin connectors instead of the more common seven pin style. For those of you who are interested, here is the color code for the nine pin connector. Bill Rahm worahm@aol.com
9 Pin Wiring Codes
| 9 Pin Connector Chart |
| Number | Color | Connects To: |
| 1 | White | Ground |
| 2 | Blue | Brakes (hot) |
| 3 | Green | Tail, Clearance, License Plate |
| 4 | Black | Battery charge line from tow car |
| 5 | Red | Left turn signal & brake light |
| 6 | Brown | Right turn signal & brake light |
| 7 | Yellow | Trailer back-up lights |
| 8 | Gray | Not used |
| 9 | Orange | Refrigerator control |
Fuses and Circuit Breakers From 1984 Avion Owners Manual |
| 12 Volt Circuit Number | Circuit Location | Rating |
| 1 | Door Side | 20 Amp |
| 2 | Road Side | 20 Amp |
| 3 | Ceiling | 20 Amp |
| 4 | Rear | 20 Amp |
| 5 | Monitor Panel | 3 Amp |
| 6 | Outlets, Monitor Panel, Radio, Water Pump | 20 Amp |
| 110 Volt Circuit Number | Circuit Location | Rating |
| 1 | Main | 20 Amp |
| 2 | Recepticles | 20 Amp |
| 3 | Recepticles | 20 Amp |
| 4 | Air Conditioner | 20 Amp |
| Radio Fuse | Behind Monitor Panel | 3 Amp |
| Battery Fuse | At batteries | 40 Amp |
| Water Pump Fuse | At pump | 10 Amp |
| Power Jack Fuse | At batteries | 20 Amp |
| Refrigerator Fuse | At Batteries | 30 Amp |
Bulb Replacement Chart (from a 1984 Avion Owners Manual) |
| Description | Location | Number |
| Single Square Fixture | Center bath, Center bath shower and truck | 1141 |
| Dual Square Fixtures | Ceiling light and below overhaeed cabinets | 1141 |
| Mirror Lights | Rear Bath | 1143/1139 |
| Indirect Lighting | Behind front Valance | 1141 |
| Interior convenience lgihts | Below front and rear overhead cabinets, and above entry door | 1139 |
| Range hood lights | Oven Range | 912 |
| Exterior convenience lights | Hitch, roadside rear utility door, and above entry door | T-105 |
| Living Room ceiling fixtures | Over dining table | 1141 |
| Oven Light | Oven | 15 watt, 12 volt standard base |
| Runing Lights | 5 front, 5 rear and side markers | 1895 |
| Back-up Lights | Taillight housings | 1156 |
| Stop/turn and taillights | Taillight housings | 1157 |
| License plate light | License Plate | 67 |
| Reading Lights | Divider wall | 1176 |
Batteries for older Avions — Checking at my local Farm & Fleet for the long thin batteries used in the older Avions and they still carry the 3ET size (Industrial Rated) which is what I had in my 1964 Avion. Dr.G.
Solar Basics —
Solar Power inthe August 2005 The Airstream Life — The Official Airstream Quarterly Lifestyle Magazine.
Electrical Basics —
The 12Volt Side of Life -
This should answer any battery question you can come up with Concerning Batteries, charging, invertors, solar and links to over related sites.
Updating your marker lights — New Link Added (7/7/2004) -
http://avion.freewebsitehosting.com/clp/clp.htm : Avion Marker Light Project by Jim Nelson.
Wiring Help Available — Rick Richnow Hercules381@cox.net I have just purchased a 1979 32T. I noticed that most people are looking for wiring diagrams and construction type drawings. I'm currently working with the factory to get hold of these items. I have talked with Bill Cayo who says he doesn't have them. The factory has so far found drawings back to 1983. The gentleman I'm working with said he is going into microfiche to see if he can find mine. If anyone is interested in getting diagrams for their trailers they can drop me a line. I'll see what I can do to help. (8/29/2000). Rick — Hercules381@cox.net
Wiring Diagram — I do have the wiring diagram for a 1978 28-J Avion ((8/29/2000). Contact me if you need a copy. — DrG@execpc.com
Wanted Avion Battery Box Cover — Wanted. Battery Box Cover, for an Avion Fiberglass Battery Box (double wide). For a 1980 30-P. Black Fiberglass with overcenter type latches on both ends. Cayo's no longer has replacements. (10/17/2000). E-mail: Forest McGinnis, Route 2 Box 1, Beloit, Kansas 67420. Telephone: 785-738-3869. E-mail: fmcgoo@nckcn.com
If anyone know the manufacturer of these or a similar source for double wide battery boxes. Please send to Forest and to me DrG so I can list it here for others.
Replacement Battery Box — From Roger Dangremond: All of our fiberglass products are sold through our distributor, Cayo Repair. We no longer do any installation work, but Cayo is the place to go. Our replacement battery box is larger than the original box, and will hold 4 golf cart sized batteries. The inside dimension is 42-1/2" long by 7-3/4" wide by 15-1/2" high. available through : Cayo Repair Service, 4835 M-140, Watervliet, Michigan 49098. Telephone (269) 463-5068, FAX (269) 463-5073
Vanity Light Fixture — James B Peticolas — I own a 1993 34.5 5th wheel Avion the cover for the light fixture in the bathroom is cracked and I have nor been able to find a replacement for it. Anyone know where I might buy a replacement. (3/25/01). turbo13@ix.netcom.com.
If anyone know the manufacturer of these or a similar sources for electrical fixtures. Please send to Jim and to me DrG so I can list it here for others.
Jensen Light Parts Wanted — Bill Rahm — Does anyone know where I can purchase replacement lens's for the Jensen overhead ceiling lights fixtures that are original equipment in 1987 Avions — Bill Rahm - WORahm@AOL.COM — I suggested that he start at Cayo Repair - DrG Bill Rahm — I asked the very nice lady who answered the phone at Cayo's if she had or could tell me where to buy new lens' for my Jensen 12 volt, over head lights that are original equipment in my 87 Avion. She never hesitated and told me they had a good amount on hand. The cost was approximately $3.00 and some change plus shipping. The lens is slightly different (It may be a later model) but it fits the lamps perfectly. The original lens were frosted. The new lens are also frosted but have a 2" diameter clear area in the center. I like the newer style and may replace all the lenses though out the trailer. I received a response from someone who saw my inquiry on the Avion web site. They thought lenses were available from Camping World. So many of this type of lens are very similar and look like they would fit the Jensen lamp. I had even bought one that I was certain was a Jensen replacement but it turned out that it was too large. Bill Rahm
12 volt Kill Switch & Battery Overcharing! —
Penny Wolin - PennyWolin@earthlink.net — Do I need to use my 12V kill switch on a daily basis? It seems like the converter/charger is always humming which makes me think it does not go into trickle charge, rather it just keeps charging. The battery was dry and bloated, signs of overcharging. I replaced the battery yesterday, so will pay closer attention to the charging cycle.
Suggestions : — I would check that the inverter/charger and the battery both have good grounds -
DrG
Bob Muncy — For more than 20 years, I have left the trailer plugged in with 12 volt power going through the converter. One Avion, a 1983 model, produced a higher than normal charge rate (about 13.9 - 14.0 volts) which resulted in burning the water out of the battery every few weeks, thus resulting in constantly adding water. This could have been fixed, I later learned, by adjusting the charge rate, but I never did and I had to replace the batteries after about 5 years. The other Avions ( 3 ) had a lower charge rate and the batteries lasted much longer and hardly ever needed water. My present Avion (1977) still has the batteries I installed in 1995 and is doing great. You can purchase a 12 volt meter to plug into a 12 volt outlet (about $12). It is still a good idea to check the battery water level every month or so. We trailer a lot - have logged about 300,000 miles since 1961. The "Kill Switch" is best used, in my opinion, when the trailer must be left unattended and unused for a lengthy period of time "without an electrical hook-up". This would then prevent 12 volt voltage drain from any source in the trailer. Hope this may be of some help. Keep that Avion rolling.
Bob Muncy — SilverAvion@frontiernet.net —
Silver Avion Fellowship.
Penny Wolin — It looks as if there was a bad ground at the inverter. I replaced the battery, cleaned everything up, tightened the connections, and found a loose ground at the inverter. I tightened that and viola; everything works once again. The inverter is not coming on all of the time, and the battery is not getting hot. Anyway, the improper ground rectified seems to be setting things straight to
just leave it on.
Electrial Schematics — Rick Richnow - Hercules381@cox.net — I talked to Fleetwood's service dept. They said that they have electrical drawings for late 70's and up.
AC/DC Converter Repairs —
Harvey Barlow - HarveyBarlow@sbcglobal.net —
1987 Avion 32-S. The ac/dc power converter in my Avion works well, but the cooling fan motor, mounted under one of the rear twin beds, is excessively noisy. I removed the converter and found the fan motor and blades had a fifteen year accumulation of heavy lint. I removed the lint which slightly reduced the noise, but the fan motor still rattles. My converter is a Series 6345, rated at 45 amps, manufactured by B & W Manufacturing, Inc. of Kokomo, IN. I did a little research and learned that B & W was acquired or changed its name, first to Magnatek, and recently to
Parallax Power Components. Parallax is a friendly and helpful company. I learned that Parallax offers a Series 7300 solid state replacement circuit board in 45 amp or 55 amp rating which can be installed in the original converter housing. It comes complete with a replacement fan and all necessary instructions for installation. It can be purchased from Camping World for approximately $235 or from a Parallax approved outlet,
B R Wholesale,
possibly at a lower price. I also learned that if the original converter still works as designed, as mine does, an improved replacement
cooling fan motor complete with a new fan blade can be obtained from B R Wholesale for $27.50 plus shipping.
Parallax has an excellent website
http://www.parallaxpower.com and
Harvey Barlow. —
B R Wholesale can be reached at (800) 900-2468. My replacement fan motor is on order.
I'll report when it has been received and installed. (9/17/2002).
Harvey Barlow
From: Jeff McCoy — JMcCoy@parallaxpower.com To:
HarveyBarlow@sbcglobal.net:
Sir, Yes, the BW brand is the forerunner of the now Parallax Power Components Brand. The 6300 that you have can be replaced directly
with a # 7345RU. This kit has all the instructions and parts needed to upgrade your "Linear" converter to a new Electronic system.
This upgrade will reduce the noise associated with the transformer "hum". It can also provide up to it's rated output (45 amps) to charge
the batteries in your coach. I suggest that a qualified Technician installs the upgrade, but it could be done by yourself depending
on your skills. Please feel free to contact me with any additional questions.
Jeff McCoy, Parallax Power Components L.L.C., RV Product Development,
112 E. Union , Goodland, IN. 46948, Telephone: (219) 297-2352; Fax: (219) 297-2306
Solution — I obtained a replacement fan motor from
BR Wholesale and installed it. Here are the basic steps: !!Electrical power must be isolated before working on your converter!! [Be sure of this or yourcould be knocked on your rear or have a Sudden Death. DrG]. Unplug your trailer's ac shorepower umbilical cord at the power source. Isolate trailer's 12vdc batteries by either removing the battery cable(s) or placing the battery isolation switch in the "off" position. Do not casually touch electrical components inside the converter with bare fingers or jewelry because large filter capacitors can hold a charge sufficient to cause severe electrical shock. The writer accepts no responsibility for damage or injury which might result from others using this guide. Open the cabinet door to gain access to the converter face. My converter is installed under the rear, street-side twin bed. Remove the screws that attach the metal face panel to the converter. Remove the four tapered screws that attach the front of the converter to the surrounding cabinetry. Remove the converter from under the bed and turn it up on its back so the front is facing upward. Wires attached to the converter are sufficiently long to allow removing the converter from its cabinet. The fan is located on the right side, in the bottom rear of the converter case. To gain access to the fan motor, I moved the large electric relay which is mounted in front of it. Loosen the relay by drilling out from the bottom, the pop rivets that attach the relay to the bottom of the metal case. Push the relay aside as much as possible. Remove the two machine screws that attach the fan motor to the right side of the case. Pull the fan motor up and out of the case. Cut the black fan motor wires at a length outside of the case. Strip 1/4" of insulation from the ends of the wires on the new fan motor and the cut ends of the original wires protruding from the case. Attach fan wires to the original wires with butt connectors. Slide the new fan inside the case and attach it with the two machine screws previously removed. Place the large relay back in position and reattach it to the case bottom with pop rivets. Blow accumulated lint and dust from the case with compressed air if available, or a vacuum cleaner with a small suction nozzle. Inspect your work to ensure the fan, relay, and wiring are back in their original positions and will not interfere with other components. Place the converter back in its original installed position and reattach to surrounding trailer cabinet with four tapered screws. Reinstall the metal face cover. Restore 12 vdc power with the isolation switch or by reattaching battery leads. Plug the trailer shore power cable back into a 30 amp supply source. Immediately monitor converter performance to ensure breakers don't trip, fuses don't blow, and wire insulation doesn't melt. Check to see that lighting and appliances work as before. Congratulations! You have replaced your noisy fan motor. . (9/27/2002). Harvey Barlow
For surplus or salvage parts check these sites: -
RV Parts Outlet —
RV Salvage —
RVer's Salvage
LED Lights for Your Avion - I've been tossing the idea around since I was in Fairbanks, AK in June of trying to adapt the new LED light systems into my existing Bargman 84 tail lamps. Browsing the TDR website a few minutes ago a fellow TDR member posted the solution. This company, LED Trailer Lights.com, is way ahead of me. They have already developed and are marketing a direct replacement. Avions (Travel Supremes) and many, possibly most, other RVs and cargo trailers use the standard Bargman lamps. They aren't cheap, particularly when my TS uses four plus backup lamps, but the difference in visibility and safety provided by the LED lamps is worth it. Thought you might like to post this on your site. http://www.ledtrailerlights.com - (8/1/2004) - Harvey Barlow — HarveyBarlow@sbcglobal.net
Return to the Index
FLOORING
Needed -- Tips on floor replacement. — Check the
July 12, 2000 - Interesting Email to check if your Avion Door Frame is properly sealed at the bottom!!
Floor Repair Tips -- From Dave Miller on a telephone call to Chuck Cayo: After he found out that I am a cabinetmaker, he went into great detail about repairing the floor. The floor is in three parts and laminated together. First layer is about a 3/8" plywood. This should be the first to be carefully removed. According to him this is usually all that has to be replaced, if caught early enough. Next, is the foam insulating layer. This can be removed with a putty knife, or chisel to examine the third and last layer, which is plywood. If the third layer is sound, then remove some of the foam, past the cut edge, forming a kind of tongue and groove. Add the appropriate thickness of plywood (he said not to try to replace it with foam) gluing all to return the same type of rigidity and integrity to the floor structure. Also, to stagger the joints of the plywood. If the third layer needs to be replaced, use the same procedure. I asked him how to replace the wood that is under the wall. He said that there is a panel, about 10" high, that can be removed to get to it. He also said that the door threshold will have to come out and that is welded, but easy to take out. He told me that he has replaced floors from the door up!
Carpeting Tips --
For the people who would like to put carpet down and are concerned about using regular padding. I have found a great alternative. There is a product called Astrofoil, it is made by Astrofoil International their address is 901 Wilshire Dr. Ste 490 Troy, MI 48084 Phone is 248-362-2247 Fax is
248-362-4984 their web email address is astrofoil@ameritech.net. The product is two layers of polyethylene bubble film sandwiched between two layers of 99.9% pure aluminum foil, bonded together with 5 layers of polyethylene film, making a 9 layer structure 5/16ths inch thick. It is a great insulation and padding to be used under carpet. I have found two places that sell it which these are their e-mail addresses.
insulate@innovativebldgproducts.com, —
ie@insul.net,
It comes in 4 foot wide and 50-75 foot rolls. is fairly inexpensive. One company wanted for a 4" x 75" $105.00 and the other company wanted for a 4' x 50' $76.00. I also find it would be good for usage under the floor for insulation and in the walls. This product is used by Vermont Healthy Homes and he swears by it. So no need to have carpet without padding again. Hope this will be of use to a lot of you. From Rick & Kathy Richnow
Unit #17174
Help how do I do carpeting in the tip out? — Lillian.
I would like to know how you put in new carpet in a tip out 5th wheel in living room. Can't figure how it goes under where it slides in contact lillian@ainop.com - Lillian.
Peggy Baker — 21 December 2000 — The slide MUST be taken out. It is quite a big job, not to be undertaken by ordinary carpet layers. Should be done by either Woody in Omaha or Avion factory in Longview, TX.
Ron — 21 December 2000 — There is a couple of ways to do it but if you have a shop with cement floors,
you can jack-up the slide and put saw horse under it. Unbolt it at the out side and get under. You can also put wheels under the saw horse and pull it out. Count the threads on the slide so you can get back in the same place.
Floor Repair Help Needed — Feb 7, 2002 —
Patrick Unkel -
OldUnk@bellsouth.net —
I have a 1969 Avion trailer and I have removed a small portion of the 3/8" plywood in the front of the trailer ( about one foot extending from the wall and about three to four feet extending to about the middle of the enter and exit door). I seem to have had water damage on the area that I removed. But the problem I am facing is that the floor seems to be separated into sections(as well as the three layers you specified). the floor seems to be separated by a 1" by 2" wooden stud, the stud divides the first tree to four feet of the trailer from what appears to be the rest of the trailer. My flooring in the front of the stud is sagging not being connected to the wall at all on the side with the water damage. the stud too is partially rotten. by the way behind the stud there seems to be a metal support for the third layer instead of the plywood............any suggestions on how to fix the sagging and repair the stud? and what about the metal support are you familiar with that? —
Patrick Unkel
Replacing your floor? — I have a few photos from various floor replacements. If you have photos you can share send them to me and I will forward them to others who would like to see what they are getting into.
Floor Repair Photos c/o DrG -
Those pictures are now posted at
http://avion.freewebsitehosting.com/frdj.
If you have any digital photos of an Avion I am also collecting those. Please send me any photos you have (please identify the year and model if you can).
I replaced my Floor — August 28, 2003 —
Bill Rahm - WORahm@AOL.COM — [Note Bill has wonderful photos includes but I do not have the space to include them here (also takes quite a lot of time to load this page if you are on a dial up) so please write to Bill and he can send the article with Photos. DrG] —
After returning to Florida from a recent trip to New Jersey, I noticed the floor near the front, right hand corner of my 1987 Avion, 30P model showed signs of wood rot. I have attempted to outline the procedure, complete with photographs, I used to repair the damage and locate the leak(s).
Before you begin, buy a good square drive screwdriver. Almost every screw you will remove will have a square head. You will need a power saw, chisel set, notched trowel, hammer, mallet, utility knife, metal square, or straight edge, shop vacuum, router with a 1/4" x 3/8" square bit, electric drill, and rotary wire brush, belt sander, mineral sprits, plenty of rags and a container to store the screws.
The first problem was removing the safa/bed. Removing the lower portion of the sofa/bed from the brackets gave access to the screws that hold the sofa/bed to the floor. You will need someone to hold the lower section of the sofa/bed while you remove the screws that secure it to the frame. You will have to lay on your back to access the screws. I found that I could move the sofa bed to the left side of the trailer which gave me more then enough room to access the floor area that was damaged.
This is what I saw after I removed the safa/bed. The vinyl was discolored and the floor was spongy,
This is a photo of the floor area after I removed the vinyl and the rotted top layer of plywood. The light colored area is Styrofoam. After I determined the size of the damaged area, I used a steel square and utility knife to cut the vinyl two inches larger then the damaged area. Then I carefully removed the vinyl. I used a flat putty knife to separate the vinyl from the "good" wood. After removing the vinyl, I could see the damage area extended under the wall.
I outlined the damaged area using a steel straight edge and pencil making sure to include all the rotted plywood. Then I proceeded to cut out the rotted wood section. It was a messy job. Removing the rotted wood required the use of a rotary saw, wood chisels and a rotary wire brush attached to a drill motor to remove the rotted wood from under the wall. It looked much better after I vacuumed and cleaned the area. Classic Avion trailers have a 6" wide piece of aluminum that runs along the bottom of the interior |