BY: GERALD A. BONSACK - © 1991
As with most small to medium towns, the fireworks display consists of small to large aerial shells, shot off one at a time. There may be a couple of multiple shell bursts, not counting the finally, so how do you get interesting fireworks photographs? In the next few paragraphs, I will cover one method of "STACKING" aerial bursts to produce dramatic photographs. This "STACKING" process can be used with any camera that has a "B - bulb" setting.
Items that you will need are as follows:
You may ask what do I want a black, closed end cylinder for? Do you remember what the photographers actions were during Civil War or Old Western Movies? Wouldn't the photographer tell the people to stand/set still and then he would remove the lens cap for a given anount of time? This method is what I use to "STACK" fireworks bursts, by covering the lens between bursts and during unwanted bursts.
Now here is where the black, closed end cylinder comes in. My cylinder was made from the bottom of a 2 litter soft drink container. After cutting the bottle in half, I lined the inside with tape and painted it black. You could use the bottom half of a large cardboard tube, like an oat meal container. The only requirements are that the cylinder be at least twice the diameter and length of your lens. These requirements are aimed at not bumping/moving the camera.
If you look back at the requirement #5, you will see I suggest using a 70 - 210 mm zoom. The reason behind this is the farther away from the action you are, the fewer the people to get in your way. I try to get a vantage point somewhere between 3/4 to 1 1/2 mile from the launch point. From that distance I find that I have adequate room around me. Also from this point and with the telephoto lens, you can selectively crop your images. Another option is to zoom in on the last burst, for an additional effect.
Once you have found the proper vantage point, set up the camera and tripod. If possible, do not elevate the camera/center shaft above the tripod base. By elevating the camera, you go from a solid three point support system to a single, less rigid support. Plan to getting to your vantage point early enough to view the area and decide how you will crop and shoot the display ( horizontal / vertical ). Do not be afraid to photograph in either mode.
While you are waiting for the show to begin, attach your cable release, set the shutter speed to "B". Also select the proper f-stop for the film that you are using.
NOTE: If you plan on really stacking the bursts, onto a given frame, stop down by an additional STOP. By doing this you will have a darker sky and more color saturation.
Once the show begins, the size and height of the bursts normally follow a pattern. They may start with a couple of small shells (low), followed by larger and higher shells and then reverse. Now here is where planning begins. When you wish to expose the first burst, open the shutter using the cable release. When the burst dies down DO NOT RELEASE THE CABLE, BUT INSTEAD COVER THE END OF THE LENS WITH THE BLACK CYLINDER. When the next desired burst occurs, remove the blackened cylinder, to add this burst to the frame. Again, covering the lens as the burst dies down, repeat this cycle until you have captured the desired number of bursts - release the cable and advance the film.
The results of this method can best be described by a quote from a local Skyrocker, "If, we group our bursts as pictured either our shows will cost three times as much or be only one-third the length."
This article just one of dozens of "HOW TO" articles that I have written, for the local camera club and for publication.